PRE-MAKEUP APPLICATION.
Begin by plucking your eyebrows, and cleansing, toning and moisturizing the skin.
Makeup artist tip! Always wipe over the eyelids with a cotton pad dampened with cleansing water prior to applying makeup. This will remove any oil from the surface of the skin and help your eye makeup adhere better.
EYES.
Makeup artist tip! When I am using a dark-colored eyeshadow, I like to apply the eye makeup first. This way, if there is any fallout, it won’t ruin the foundation.
Prep and prime.
Brush on the base!
1. Apply a light layer of Thevi Liquid Powder Mineral Foundation to the eye area with a firm, flat brush(a), and blend it with your fingertips.
Makeup artist tip! Foundation will help to even out the skin tone in the eye area; however, it will only mask minor imperfections. For heavy duty help . . .
Call up the concealer!
2. Apply a creamy concealer(b) to the eyelid and underneath the eye with a firm, flat brush(a), and then use the warmth of your fingertip to blend it onto the skin. For optimal coverage, pat the concealer into the skin with the pad of your finger; don’t rub, because this will wipe the concealer away.
Why conceal? Concealing the eye area is important because it allows you to create a blank canvas to work on. To get a true color pay-off from your eyeshadow, you need to block the unwanted undertones in the eyelid (i.e. red and/or blue hues caused by small veins). When concealing around the eye socket, the aim is to mask the pink or gray tones so the skin in this area matches the rest of the face.
Powder those lids!
Makeup artist tip! To make blending “matte” eyeshadows easier, always prepare the eyelid with powder first.
3. To create a powder base, blend Thevi Mineral Pressed Powder over the eyelid with a small powder brush(c).
Eyelashes.
For lengthy-looking top lashes, curl them with eyelash curlers(d).
Eyeshadow.
Makeup artist tip! For the perfect eyeshadow application, keep your eyes open, tilt your head slightly backwards (to stretch the skin on your eyelid taut) and look into a mirror.
Lightest shade.
1. To create the illusion of wider-set eyes, press the lightest color in the Thevi Triple Split Shadow in Bistro (a light yellow/gold frost) into the inner corner of the eye (both top and bottom) with a firm, flat brush(a); then blend it outward over the eyelid and upward over the brow bone with a soft, fluffy brush(e). For this look, the color should be lightest at the inner corner of the eye and graduate upward and outwards.
Makeup artist tip! Initially pressing the shadow onto the inner corner of the eye, as opposed to blending back and forth, allows you to build up a more intense layer of color.
Middle shade.
2. Using a soft, fluffy brush(e), blend Thevi Matte Shadow in Cameo over the center of the eyelid, into the crease and onto the outer corner of the eye.
Darkest shade.
Makeup artist tip! To achieve an initial strong application of color and reduce fallout, use the flat side of the brush to stipple on the shadow. If flakes of eyeshadow do fall beneath the eyes and onto the cheeks, remove them with a Q-Tip (cotton bud) dipped in cleansing water.
3. Take Thevi Matte Shadow in Dark Brown on a small, flat brush(f), and using a patting motion, block the color over the outer edge of the eyelid and through the socket line; then, following the natural contour of the eye, blend back and forth with a soft, fluffy brush(e) to shape and soften the color. To create a modern smoky eye, wing the eyeshadow out slightly at the outer corner and blend using circular motions. To achieve the desired depth and dimension, add more Thevi Matte Shadow in Dark Brown to the outer corner of the lid and blend it through the crease. Next, sweep Thevi Matte Shadow in Cameo onto the ball of the eyelid and blend with a soft, fluffy brush(e).
Highlight.
Touch up the inner corner of the eye with the lightest color in the Thevi Triple Split Shadow in Bistro. Take it beneath the eye, and using a pointed blending brush(g), blend it from the inner corner to the middle of the lower lash line. This will open up the eye and give it a sexy sheen.
Hot tip! Yellow and gold tones work well on olive skin and make brown eyes fizz!
Intensify the eye!
To enhance the smoky intensity, take a small, flat blending brush(h) and work Thevi Matte Shadow in Dark Brown along the lower lash line. Using a medium angled brush(i), blend the eyeshadow to smooth and soften the finish.
Eyeliner.
To give the eye definition, take Thevi Automatic Longlasting Eyeliner in Onyx, and using a series of short, overlapping strokes, apply it to the top and bottom lash lines. The lines should be thicker at the outer corner of the eye, tapering inwards. Also, apply Thevi Automatic Longlasting Eyeliner in Onyx to the upper and lower inner rims. For a professional finish, blend along the lash lines with a small angled brush(j) and create a wing at the outer corner of the eye, so the bottom and top lash lines meet in a smooth point. Finally, for added smoulder, soften the lower lash line with a small, flat blending brush(h).
Eyelashes.
Coat the top and bottom eyelashes with Thevi Lush Mascara in Black.
Makeup artist tip! Do you have trouble applying mascara to the lower lashes? Yes? Apply it when there is only a small amount of product on the brush. Paint your top lashes first, and without re-dipping the wand, hold the brush horizontally and wiggle it over and through the bottom lashes, coating them from base to tip.
FACE.
Foundation.
For fresh and flawless skin, apply Thevi Liquid Powder Mineral Foundation to the face with a foundation brush(k) and then work it in with your fingertips. Test the color along the jawline first, and once you have selected the right shade, start in the middle of the face, and using outward and downward strokes, blend it onto the skin. To avoid obvious lines of demarcation, apply foundation sparingly near the hairline, jawline and eyebrows, and BLEND, BLEND, BLEND!
Makeup artist tip! Check your foundation regularly to ensure you have the perfect shade for your skin tone. Seasonal changes (and other factors) can alter the color of your complexion.
Concealer.
What spot?
Take a full-coverage concealer(b) on a firm, flat brush(a) and apply it to any imperfections and blemishes; then, for a faultless finish, pat it into the skin with your fingertip so it blends seamlessly with your foundation.
Bright eyes.
Makeup artist tip! To create a perfectly textured product for the skin beneath the eye, I mix a concealer with the contents of a highlighter pen. This combination gives coverage as well as light reflective luminosity.
It’s time to touch up! Mix a concealer(b) and highlighter pen(l) together on the back of your hand and apply it under the eye with a firm, flat brush(a). To blend, press it into the skin with your fingertips.
Powder.
To set your foundation and minimize shine, dust Thevi Mineral Pressed Powder over the face with a large, fluffy powder brush(m).
LIPS.
For a glossy nude lip, apply Thevi High Impact Lipstick in Sequin with a lip brush(n).
CHEEKS.
Lastly, apply Thevi Sheer Matte Blush in Whisper Apricot to the cheekbones with a large, fluffy powder brush(m).
You are ready to take the day on.
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